I had an extra day before I my Airbnb reservation in Mexico City. I decided to go to Puebla where I read in a blog they had a nice church. I was really just killing time. But I was surprised in Puebla!
Now everyone knows I am a Starbucks fan. We have a long history together. In Mexico there are quite a few in the major centres. However, more prevalent is the Italian Coffee Company.
What makes then really handy for breaks is that they are often right along the main road next to gas stations. Today’s trip to Puebla was no different. I really enjoy my morning coffee.
I got a really good price for a nice hotel not far from downtown Puebla. Well below my meager accomodation budget 🙂 It was a small room with no air conditioning. But they supplied a fan. And there was secure parking for my motorcycle.
I only had the evening to explore the town so I set off right away for the plaza in the downtown. Boy was I surprised. SOOOOOO nice.
For my entertainment while I was having something to eat at the plaza, I watched a demonstration outside the city hall, and the police tactical unit response.
La Compañia Templo del Espíritu Santo or Temple of the Company
The churches in Mexico are always a highlight and are central to the city. It seemed even more so in Puebla. The La Compañia Templo del Espíritu Santo or Temple of the Company is really nice.
The history according to Wikipedia is:
The first Jesuits arrived in Puebla de los Angeles in 1572 at the request of some bishops, like the Yucatan, for the instruction of the natives. By the 1580s they already owned the land where they founded their school and the original temple that would serve them. Parents who were held in 1587 alms received a major gift of Captain Melchor de Covarruvias who was a Spanish merchant grana inhabitant of the city since 1581 and a member of a distinguished and influential family. Covarrubias received the title of founder of the Temple and of the College of the Holy Spirit. At his death on May 25, 1592, the order inherited the remainder of his property.
The Jesuits undertook the works for the construction of the new temple in 1583 concluding it in 1600, year of its consecration. In 1666, Father Pedro Valencia, rector of the College hired Diego Marin, master gilder and architect whitening, gild and decorate their vaults with plasterwork style works mannerist . The work contract specifies among other things:
“In the vault that falls on the presbytery and high altar of relief the Holy Spirit and on the sides two shields with the arms of Don Melchor de Covarruvias, distinguished founder of the said college”
By 1759, however, the first building did not far exceed the village around it, it had a single tower and was licensed to use part of the square opposite as a cemetery, according to Medina’s plans.
The works of ornamentation of the teacher Diego Marín did not subsist because they were replaced by the works of edification of the definitive church, begun in 1746 by the master architect José Miguel de Santa María, considered the latter a true master of Baroque Puebla architecture. From Santa Maria, he was a mestizo, a native of the city who became master, and who died a few months after dedicating the temple was among the first to be buried in it. After the rebuilding of the magnificent temple was blessed by Bishop Francisco Fabian and Fuero in 1767, a few months before the expulsion of the Jesuits not only of New Spain but Spain itself. After being closed for several years, he served as a parish of Sagrario late eighteenth century . At the beginning of the next century towers they were completed by the behest of Bishop Manuel Gonzalez del Campillo . The altarpiece dating from 1927 was designed by the architect Luis G. Olvera. The temple remained in the hands of the Jesuit fathers from 1888 to 1978, when it was ceded to the archbishopric. Because university conflict, the dome was damaged, causing the altar painting had a considerable deterioration, which was restored by the artist Emilio Morales Gómez poblano currently serves the Angelopolitana Cathedral as assistant to administer the sacrament of confirmation.
However, even more impressive was the Puebla Cathedral.
I walked around the cathedral a few times just taking it all in. Truly magnificent.
According to Wikipedia:
On January 24, 1557 Viceroy Martín Enríquez (1562–80) authorized construction. The design was submitted to the Dean and Cathedral Chapter on November 11, 1557. Construction began in November 1575, under the direction of architect Francisco Becerra and Juan de Cigorondo. Construction was interrupted in 1626 but in 1634 Juan Gómez de Trasmonte modified the design and construction began again in 1640 when Bishop Juan de Palafox y Mendoza arrived with the appointment of visitor-general of New Spain and bishop of Puebla. The cathedral was in bad shape when Palafox arrived in 1640, the building not yet completed and unconsecrated. When Palafox lost his struggle with the Jesuits and viceroy Salvatierra, he was appointed bishop to a minor diocese in Spain, but before he left New Spain in 1649 he devoted considerable energy to completing the cathedral and its consecration. The renovation over nine years had cost 350,000 pesos, engaged 1,500 workers under the supervision of an Aragonese Pedro García Ferrer. The ceremony of consecration was set for April 18, 1649, and for Palafox was not only the culmination of the massive building project, but also his grand farewell to his diocese. The Cathedral was consecrated to the Virgin Mary in a huge and emotional ceremony, with civil and religious participants, the reburial of the remains of previous prelates, brilliant musical performances, and a sermon by Palafox himself in his final farewell to his flock
It was not entirely completed until 1690. The front façade was built out of a black limestone, and it has two towers, the tallest in Mexico, one of which has no bells. According to legend, an underground river passes under that tower and if bells were placed in it, the tower would collapse.
Even the Puebla City Hall was nice.
Puebla at Night
I decided to go out at night a see these same spots. It was mesmerizing.
I decided then that I would come back to Puebla and spend more time.